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My job includes visits to Paris often. But my first trip to Paris was a cliché. I was lost in love. Anything "we" did as a couple was phenomenal. Mon amour's family obligations kept us apartment-bound, spying on 70-year-old mother. We did manage one escape up Tour d'Eiffel, but promptly returned to mother's vaporizing whiskey supply, and berated rants about her adult children.
As the relationship ended in odious demise, I returned alone to Paris on business six months later. Memories were unavoidable. The prolonged kiss in mother's elevator; the nights romancing future plans together. I was determined to conquer our Paris with new retention. Being in love is like binge drinking --once forced-off, you swear you'll never touch it again.
Paris is a most enchanted city. Having colleagues in Paris provided insight into cultural activities, cuisine, and French lifestyle. I made new friends who kept me occupied with social engagements, and introduced me to their friends. It was a charming change from the States, where we have lost the compassion to introduce ourselves.
The only US-myth true about France, is that Paris is romantic. From evening-lit street trees, and tender conversations amidst candle light, to the handsome architecture with flowering terrace plants, and the occasional lovers parting before the Metro on perfervid kiss-- this captures Paris. The infamous myths about Paris are not true. What you don't read about Paris; rush-hour is a nightmare -- even on the Metro-- and it is louder than any city in the United States due to motor scooters and cars. And you can't locate an accurate weather report, anywhere.
The French are curious to know you. They respect your right to like or dislike someone in politics, let us say George W Bush. Unlikely to find someone who likes him in Paris, but they won't hold it against you personally. They ask questions about life in the United States. They'll impress you with their knowledge of US politics, which is more than most US-citizens know. They are expressive people, hard working, and they understand their rights to vote, protest, and to value a living wage.
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Additional trips to Paris taught me valuable phrases. While certainly bonjour, merci, and s'il vous plait do get you far.... ordering a meal is a little more advanced for a six week stay. They aren't hard of hearing, as I told a man from San Francisco barking loudly, "I-WANT-A-COFFEEEE..." I said, "Surely you can remember, 'S'il vous plait, je veux un cafe, monsieur.'" Not precise French, but they'll understand what you want and respect you for trying.
At the brasserie St. Amour on Avenue Gambetta near Pere Lachaise, a waitress grew accustomed to me. Our first encounter was awkward. I said bonjour and s'il vous plait, using my finger to point at the menu, rouge to point at the wine, and filet mignon to point at beef, rouge beof, hoping she understood I mean rare. She was intimidated. By the fifth time however, she was greeting me with a smile, and suggesting food on the menu, in broken English. She admitted to not know English, and yet she knew more words in English than I knew in French.
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She characterizes the Parisian. They will meet you half way, even though that isn't necessary in their own country, it is an act of hospitality that reflects their gracious culture. I recall a French couple visiting Dallas struggling to request their meal at Morton's steakhouse in the Westend, the waiter asked in a huff, "Don't y'all speak any English?" Not much different in New York City either, minus the "y'all" of course.
Tour books on Paris will suggest restaurants, hotels, and sites to visit, most recommendations double the cost you need to pay. With the US-dollar tanked, saving money is important. (In year 2000 on the French franc; coffee cost between .35-.95, beer between $1.25-$3.00, and hotel rooms between $55-$90; in 2003 on the EURO coffee runs $1.50-$2.75, beer costs $3.50-$7.00, and hotel rooms between $105-$120.)
Tour books offer little reward for Paris. Yes, I bastardize my profession when I recommend not buying a book, but I am a practical writer. The internet shows all the information you need.
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As for restaurants, you don't need to plan or ask for recommendations. Planning to eat out, like we do in the United States only stifles your day. Eat at any of thousands of brasseries or bistros. Menus sit outside, and most restaurants have English menus (for the Brits.)
For the price you'd pay on a tour book, you can buy a weekly pass on Paris' Metro. Don't plan to take a taxi other than to and from the airport -- taxis are difficult to catch in Paris. If you are a night owl, the Metro shuts down around 1 a.m. This can cramp party plans, since discos and bars stay open all night. Prepare to walk home.
Whatever cooks your plans of your life, turn the Paris burner up high. Make it a priority to visit France either alone or with a friend. Go to Paris. Enjoy Paris! Make a new friend and create memories you'll cherish for all time.
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Paris' Metro transports 6 million residents each day. Every building in Paris is within 3/10ths of one mile from a metro station. Paris and surrounding suburbs make home to 11 million residents.
The lifestyle in Paris is easy going. Weekend afternoons are social time in Paris, locals frequent outdoor pubs. I'd swear the days and nights last longer there, but we know better. Eye contact is Paris elicits bonjour or salut. In the States, people do not recognize you unless you have been introduced. On an unseasonably warm November day, I walked from Pere Lachaise, towards Chatelet Les Halles. It didn't matter how or when I arrived, wherever my head turned down a small street, my feet followed. The general direction was south and west. Paris is further north than the state of Maine. With fall sunshine strangely exaggerated to the South, shadows cast a late afternoon hue to keep streets cool. Slip into a tavern for a Belgium beer, then keep on the journey. Summer sunshine lasts well past 10 p.m. and Paris can heat up past 90 degrees.
Parisians are technically as advanced as any other high-tech city in the world. Most everyone has e-mail. The city monitors street tree health from a mainframe computer, and meeting people online is not as daring as it sounds. Browsing the "friends" sections of social websites before you visit Paris is a great way to experience their city. I discovered parts of the city unknown to my friends who live there through people I met online. I reciprocated the favor when one correspondents visit New York City. |
Visiting the central part of France was more of a challenge, but worth all effort. Trains are efficient and a superior way to travel Europe. Unlike Paris, the small towns speak less English, however residents are friendly and accommodating. On a clear evening, the sky is breathtaking. For the nighttime sky alone, plan at least one evening in the country. I had lost the look of a starlit sky, and the occasional shooting star.
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Historical records indicate extremes are winter lows in the single digits (0 above to 10 above Fahrenheit), and summer extremes in the mid-90s, both events are short-lived. January: Cold, cloudy, intermittent showers, or snow event. Low 40s - upper 20s.February: Cold, cloudy, intermittent showers, or snow event. Mid 40s - low 30s. March: Spring arrives on time in Paris. Sunshine is plentiful, temperatures can warm to near 70. Rainfall is plentiful, temperatures change quickly. Mid 50s - low 40s. Paris begins to bloom the second week of March. April: a moderate month, intermittent showers with sunshine. upper 50s - mid 40s. May: sunshine is plentiful with intermittent showers. Some days will warm past 80. upper 60s - low 50s. June: the days are long, sunshine warms the city. A day at 90 isn't unusual, nor is a rainy day at 60. Low 70s - mid 50s. July: plentiful sunshine with scattered thundershowers. Temperatures above 90 are not uncommon. Upper 70s - low 60s. Indoor air-cooling is uncommon (except for office buildings). August: days begin to shorten, usually the driest month of the year. Upper 70s - low 60s. September: fall arrives ontime, rainfall increases and the temperatures cool considerably. Upper 60s - low 50s. October: intermittent rainy days with cool weather and the first frost. Upper 50s - mid-40s. November: sharply colder as winter approaches with clouds, wind and rainfall common. Low 50s - upper 30s. December: wouldn't expect a white holiday season; however it is often cold enough. Clouds, intermittent rainfall, scattered flurries. Upper 40s - low 30s. |
